NATIONAL SKILL TRAINING INSTITUTE FOR WOMEN, NOIDA

LESSON PLAN

Trade & Course:

Cosmetology

Scope:

Lesson Plan no.:  

Subject/Module:  Hair

Prepared BY:  Ruchi chamoli

                       T.O. (Cos.)

TITLE: Hair Cutting

OBJECTIVE/Specific Aim: At the end of this lesson trainee shall be able know

·         Identify the facial shape

·         Explain the sectioning & elevation

·         Explain Length and perimeter

·         Identify the tools use for hair cutting

·         Describe the hair cutting technique

·         Describe the techniques of blow drying.

Teaching Aids: Power point presentation, Laptop/ Desktop, Charts & Videos, Manicure Tools Kit

PRESENTATION

Day

Points

Information

Example/ Spot Hint

Day 1-2

Identify the facial shape

IDENTIFY THE FACIAL SHAPES

The principles of hair cutting can be obtained by properly identify our clients features. The key to success is to highlight best features and hide worst features and To achieve best results in hair cut it should attractively frame the face.

There are seven basic facial shapes: Oval, Round, square, Heart, triangle, Rectangular and diamond.

To get best hair style, generally try to create the illusion of an oval shaped face.

By following the steps, you can find out the shape of the face.

1.       Forehead: Measure across your face from the peak of one eyebrow arch to the peak of the opposite arch.

2.       Cheekbones: Measure across your cheekbones, starting and ending at the pointiest part below the outer corner of each eye.

3.       Jawline: Measure from the tip of your chin to below your ear at the point at which your jaw angles upwards. Multiply that number by two to get your jawline measurement.

4.       Face Length: Measure from the centre of your hairline to the tip of your chin.

Power point Presentation

Charts/ Videos

Day 3-4

Explain the Sectioning & Elevation

 Sectioning for Hair Cut

Sectioning the hair is allows you to cut the hair in a controlled manner. In hair cutting basically work from back to front and from the bottom to up in most cuttings (specifically when you are creating shorter, layered hair cutting).

Sectioning for the top:

To decide the width of the frontal bone, place your fingers at the centre part of the top of your head. Now your finger down the side of your head toward your ears. After determining the width, make two partings going toward the hairline and ending at a point.

Sectioning for the Crown:

Behind the top section and between the parietal ridges on either side of the head, there is slight outline of the crown extend down to the base of the skull.

Sectioning for the Nape:

With the crown section of the hair clipped up out of the way, You can find the width of the nape section by placing your fingers behind the ears and feeling for the ridge of the temporal bones. By using these bones as your guide, you will have the exact amount of hair for the nape.

Most commonly used sectioning or partings are as follows:

·         4 section method – Centre parting from forehead to nape then a parting from ear to ear.

·         6 section method – Center parting from forehead to nape then 2 side parting from top to ear, 2 back parting from ear to ear and 2 nape parting.

·         5 section method – a) 2 side parting, 1 back parting and 2 nape parting.

                                                     b) 1 top parting, 2 side parting and 2 back parting.

                                                     c) 2 parting, 2 back parting and 1 guide line at nape.

·         7 section method – a) 1 bang in front, 2 side parting, 2 back parting and 2 nape                                                                                                    parting.

                                                             b) 3 front parting, 2 back parting and 2 nape parting.

·         Single section method – A small round parting at the top of the head.

Elevation

The angle or degree at which a subsection of hair is held is called elevation. Elevation is an action that occurs when you lift a subsection of hair above 0 degree. It is the up and down movement of hair. Whether you take a section that is horizontal, vertical or diagonal, the hair within those sections always travel up or down to complete cut.

Elevation creates graduation and layers and is usually described in degree. The most commonly used elevation is 45 and 90 degrees. A basic rule of hair cut is, the more you elevate the hair, the more graduation you create. When you elevate the hair below 90 degree, you are building weight. When you elevate the hair at 90 degree or higher, you begin to remove weight, or layer the hair.

Elevation define into three categories:

Low Elevation, Medium Elevation, High Elevation.

 Videos/ Charts

Day -6

Explain Length and perimeter

LENGTH AND PERIMETER

Length is the distance from the scalp to the ends of the hair.

Perimeter is the outer edge of the hair cut.

LINES

A line is thin continuous mark used as a guide. Two basic lines are used in hair cutting- Straight and curved.

Three types of straight lines are commonly use in hair cutting.

Horizontal, Vertical, Diagonal.

ANGLES

Angles are most important elements in creating a strong base in hair cutting. This is a basic calculation.

Angles are particularly important in two examples:

Elevation and cutting line.

Cutting line

Cutting line is known as finger angle, finger position, cutting position, and shears angle. This angle creates the end result of hair cut.

Guide line

The guide line is a section of hair that determines the length of hair will be cut.

Video/charts/ Role play

Day-7

Identify the tools use for hair cutting

Hair cutting Shear: Generally to cut blunt and straight line in hair. May also be used to slide cut and point cut.

Thinning Shear: - Thinning shear is mainly use to remove bulk from the hair. This shear can also be referred to a texturizing shear, tapering shear or notching shear. But notching shear is usually design to remove more hair with larger teeth set farther apart. Thinning of the hair depending on the particular hair style to be created.

Razor: - The razor is very useful hair shaping tool for certain texture of hair. It is very handy. With a razor we can give blunt-cut, thinning of hair, taper out the ends of the hair. Razor can be used to create an entire haircut.

They are mainly of two types of razors used:

1. The guarded razor (provides safety and prevents the

blade from cutting too deep)

2. The straight open-blade razor (widely used specially

by the experienced hair stylist)

Clipper: - Mainly used when creating short taper, short haircuts, fades and flat tops. Clippers can be used without the guard to the scalp with cutting guards at the various lengths.

Edgers: - A smaller version of clippers, mainly used to remove excess or unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears, mostly on haircuts for men and very short haircuts for women.

Wide-Tooth comb: Mainly used to detangle hair. Rarely used when performing a haircut.

Sectioning clips: These come in a variety of shape, styles, and sizes and can be made of plastic or metal. In general, two types are used: Jaw clips and duckbill clips. Both come in large and small sizes.

Barber comb: Mainly used for close tapers in the nape and sides when using the shears-over-comb technique. The narrow end of the comb allows the shear to get very close to the head.

Styling or cutting comb: - Also referred to as purpose comb, used for most haircutting procedures. It can be 6 to 8 inches in length and has fine teeth at one end, wider teeth at the other.

Role play/ Video

Hair cutting techniques

Beside the basic hair cut, there are many techniques you can use to create different effects in the appearance and behavior of hair.

Texturizing: Texturizing is the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the length. Texturizing technique can be used to add volume, remove volume, make hair "move" and blend one area into another.

Notching: Notching is one of the method of point cutting. It helps to create a chunkier looks.

Slicing: Slicing is technique that removes bulk. And add movement through the length of the hair. When slicing always use the shears near the pivot. This

technique can be performed with in a subsection.

When slicing on a surface of the haircut, it is best to work on dry hair, because you can see exactly how much hair you are taking away. Slicing technique is also known as carving.

Slithering: Slithering is the process of thinning the hair to graduated lengths with shears. In this technique, the layer of hair is cut by a sliding movement. Slithering reduce volume and creates movements.

Video/live demo

Safety Precautions

Sterilize all your tools and equipment before and after every cut

·         Cover your client with protective clothing/ Cutting cape, cutting collar.

·         Always Check the client's hair and scalp for cuts, abrasions and infestations before cutting

·         Store and handle your scissors correctly.

·         If you drop a comb or a pair of scissors on the floor, clean them or get a new one before you do any more cutting.

·         Make sure all hair is swept up immediately after you have finished the cut and, preferably, before you start blow-drying

·         When using clippers, check that the plug, flex, casing, etc are in good working order. If you think they might not be, don't use them and report the fault to your tutor.

Questions:

1)    What are the types of hair sectioning?

2)    What is the best tool of Hair cutting?

3)    When cutting hair, why is it important to divide into section?